What you will need:Your cat at mealtime, a quiet room where the cat is comfortable, a specific command( in this case, the word "come") preceded by your cat's name(Sammy, come), your positive signal.(A clicker or an upbeat word like "yes", the reward, his favorite food or special treats Come- Have you ever tried to gt your cat into a carrier when it is time to visit the vet, only to find yourself forced into a frustrating game of hide-and-seek? Teaching your cat to "come", when called makes situations like this one a lot less less stressful for both her and you. Once your cat comes to the feeding station, at the sound of the clicker, say "come", then hit the clicker. When your cat comes, give her some food and praise her. Continue this process but from other locations around your house. Eventually, your cat should come to you reliably when you say "come", without you having to use your clicker, though you should give her treats occasionally for coming.
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Sit Up- (Note: You will need a table for this trick) 1. Gently put the cat on the table edge nearest to you and pet him so he's comfortable. 2. Show your cat the reward then give the command "Sammy, up" while you hold the food directly above the cat (but not so close that he can grab it). 3. When he stand on his hind legs or haunches, and reaches for the food, hit the clicker or use the positive sinal, and say "up, good, up". Immediatly give him his reward. 4. Eventually, your cat should respond to the command "up" without you having to hold food above him.5. Once your cat has learned this behavior, you no longer need to place the cat on the table to sit up.





Stay- eaching your cat to stay is a bit more complex. Place the food down on the floor about ten feet away from her. As she approaches, put your hand out to stop her, say "stay". If she stops, make the clicking sound and reward her. If she keeps on coming, hold your hand out again and repeat the command. Reward her only when she stops. Repeat the process until your cat knows that "stay" means she should freeze in her tracks. Training one command may take anything from one or two days to a week or so, so be patient. Make the training sessions fun for your cat and for you, and make it something your cat wants to participate in.


Toilet Train(Yes, you read right!)- Step 1: Cats are notoriously finicky about their routine. Contrary to a popular beleif, even the most finicky cat can adjust to change when it is done slowly. It is important not to rush him. He should be allowed to take his time and feel comfortable with each step before proceeding to the next. If your litterbox is not currently located in the bathroom, slowly begin moving it towards the bathroom. It is preferable to use the guest bathroom as it will give your cat some privacy and be less of a hassle for you. Some cats may accept the new location without a problem. Other cats, especially those that don't cope well with change, might need this step spread over a week, or even a month in severe cases. This is a good time to transition to flushable cat litter. There are atleast a dozen varieties available. If possible, avoid litter with strong smell, such as pine or cedar as most cats find it offensive. If your cat is finicky about his litter, ease into filling the litterbox with 75% of his regular litter and 25% of the new flushable litter. When your cat has accepted a new location, it istime to introduce him to the idea of jumping up to reach the litterbox. The goal is to raise the litterbox above the toilet so your cat gets used to romping around the toilet before using the litterbox. Start by placing a phone book under the litterbox to raise it an inch or so off the ground. Each day, add another thick book, or similar object to increase the height by one inch a day.


Step 2: Once your cat is used to jumping, first, onto the toilet, and then into the litterbox, you are ready to move the box on the toilet. Remove the stack of books and move to the litterbox so it is resting on the toilet seat. If you are not sharing the toilet, and have a heavy cat, or one who moves around a lot in the litterbox, you may want to tape the box to the seat for stability. It would be terrible for the cat to fall off, mid poop, and have to back up a few steps. If your cat has problem with this step, then back up a little. Bring back the stack of books-only this time, make the litterbox even with the toilet. Straddle the litterbox between the books and toilet seat andsecure it with sturdy tape. When your cat accepts this arrangement, try again, to remove the stack of books, and leave the litterbox sitting on the toiletseat. Kittens and severly overweight cats may not have the ability to jump on the toilets by themselves. You may want to provide them with a stepping stool.


Step 3: Most grocery stores have medium oval aluminum roasting pans that should fit any toilet. The standard medium roasting pan is 12X10X3 or 32.1cmX25.7cmX8.3cm. It should sit on the brim, but hand inside the toilet bowl. If your cat is over 10lbs., use two roasting pans to support his weight. Fill the roasting pan with 1/2 inch of litter and show your cat where the "new litterbox" is by scratching his paw in the litter. He should get the hint and promptly try it out.


Step 4: Now that your cat is comfortable with the with the aluminum roasting pan inside the toilet, it's time for the next step. Each time you scoop and flush the waste, don't replace the litter. Meanwhile, cut a quarter-size hole in the back of the roasting pan, which should be less noticeable that a gaping hole in the center. Wait atleast a week before increasing the size of the hole forward by 1/2 inch, as this is often the most stressful step. If your cat has freaks at the hole in the back, experiment with different type of holes. For example, start with several pencil-sized holes spread out evenly or cut an oval slit from front to back and gradually enlarge it. As each day passes, your cat will get used to less and less litter until there is only a spoon or so left. Often this is a turning point, as most cats won't feel secure using the bathroom without litter. If your cat gets distressed from the lack of litter, you can make a little bit go a long way by rinsing the bottom of the roasting pan and spreading a tablespoon or so around. This, much like flouring a cake pan, will cause the litter to stick to the bottom as appear to be more than it actually is. When he finds that he doesn't fit comfortably into the roasting pan, he will place his back feet in the roasting pan, and his front feet on the toilet seat. As the size of the hole increases, he will learn to put all for feet on the toilet seat.


Step 5: Now that the hole on the roasting pan has grown so that only the sides remain and your cat is comfortably using it with all four feet on theseat, you are ready for the final step. Even though he is demonstrating proper squatting posture and is not stressed about using the toilet, he may still be attached to the smell of his roasting pan. Therefore, in order to slowly wean him completely off the roasting pan, start cutting the sides of the roasting pan 1 inch at a time. Wait a week or two in-between trims to give him time to adjust. Finally, when all is left is the rim of the roasting pan, remove it and see how he does.